Drake Passage and Aitcho Islands
January 7, 2000
Some of us were over the seasick stage and no longer wished to die.
A member of Shackleton's Nimrod Expedition
After breakfast we attended a photo workshop conducted by the lecturers to help us produce better quality photos in these unusual conditions. Many handy rips were provided, including ways to fool the automatic settings to compensate For the high amount of glare Found near the glaciers. Proper techniques For the handling and care Of the equipment was also dispensed. Some interesting questions were put forth, and the lecturers handled these with enthusiasm. At the end, most of us Felt more comfortable with this challenging subject and the chances for those once-in-a-lifetime shots were enhanced.
At 1030 Rick gave a very informative lecture on the theory of plate tectonics and its affects on the geology of Antarctica called "Way-ward Continents: The Plate Techtonic Story." Covering From Wegener's original theory and supporting evidence to the features that we would see today, the lecture was comprehensive and enjoyable.
An early recap was planned and Cam led it off He discussed the dynamics of albatross flight. He also described the amount of air movement produced by swells. He told a story about riding in a helicopter with a friend who was a pilot. The friend was doubtful that the swells could produce such extraordinary wind energy, so they went to have a look. When the helicopter descended to within 15 Feet (five meters) of the wave top, a cushion of air sent them soaring forty Feet (twelve meters) vertically. Quite an experiment! Following was a further discussion of the oceanographic Features, reinforcing the importance of the Antarctic Convergence, and the Antarctic Divergence as well. At first it was hard to comprehend that the circumpolar deep water could had taken over 700 years to reach Antarctica, but when he explained the unique characteristics of the water that the scientists measure, the subject came into Focus.
The clouds were low and we were weaving through icebergs. They were the first ones we had seen and there was much excitement on deck. Penguins were seen occasionally breaking the surface in a behavior known as porpoising. Abrupt, stark cliff Faces could be seen in the distance when we rose to the top of the swells. The Shetland Islands were in view. We were making For Aitcho Island and our first landing.
At 1400 we made our first
landfall after almost two days
at sea. The island had a
ghostly visage. The scout
boat went ashore first to assess
the landing conditions, and it
was deemed safe. We boarded
the boats and arrived on a
rocky, sloped beach. Gentoo
Penguins were found in
abundance and they seemed not to be bothered by the incoming parade of red jackets. We saw them resting on whale vertebrae and around the scattered whalebones, testimony to the island's role in that grisly industry of yesterday -whaling. We also saw Skua predation on Chinstrap chicks. The simple bait and snatch technique was effective this day.
Just before dinner someone spotted two humpback whales. The Captain swung the ship around and we enjoyed a good look at these beautiful animals.
They were feeding. We repeatedly saw their massive flukes before they dove deeply in search of krill. It was still breezy but the decks were awash with excitement. It was a wondrous sight. To see these amazing creatures in such a setting gave us all pause for reflection. It was our first full day in the Antarctic, and this display made us hungry for more.
